Madeira Mondays: America’s 250th Birthday, Independence Revisited

I’ve got a sneaking suspicion that a lot of Americans don’t know why we celebrate the 4th of July. And I get it. You learn about American history in school and then life gets going and some of those details just fall away. Maybe you vaguely remember some stuff, but not a lot. And, after all, it’s easy for things that happened hundreds of years ago not to feel very relevant in our day to day lives.

But the truth is that history is always relevant, and America’s founding, and the documents it produced, have a direct impact on the lives of everyone who lives in that country (and, I would argue, anyone living in a democracy in the modern world).

When I started this blog (like seven years ago?!), one of my goals was to get people excited and interested in this period of history, which always fascinated me so much! The last year or so I haven’t written too many “Madeira Mondays” and that is in part because of major new career developments that I can’t yet talk about (hopefully soon!). My head and my heart has not been in the 18th century. Pair that with the fact that I’ve just been so sad about a lot of America’s current political climate (see my post on John Donne), that I’m still not quite sure where to take this blog. As this new chapter of my writing life opens up, I’m figuring it out.

In the meantime, I wanted to share with you a look back at some of my favorite posts from the last seven years about America’s founding and independence. It felt wrong to not share anything in honor of the 250th! So here are my top five posts about the topic. A “Best of” list, if you will!

Since I live in Scotland, I was feeing homesick this holiday and missing neighborhood BBQs, parades, etc. Although admittedly not the heat.

Anyway, I hope that you had a lovely 4th of July if you are in the the US and celebrate it, and that one of these posts inspires you to learn more about this complex, turbulent, inspiring, and endlessly interesting period of history.

Independence Hall in Philadelphia, from when I visited in 2019

1: The John Adams TV Series

We’re going back to the beginning! One of my earliest posts about one of my favorite depictions of this time period of America’s founding: The HBO John Adams miniseries starring Paul Giamatti and Laura Linney! Part of my PhD actually looked at different pop culture representations of one real historical figure (Adams) in different eras.

(I’d highly recommend Episode 2: Independence from this miniseries, as it gives a great sense of what a Big Deal it was for a group of colonies to declare their independence from Great Britain)

Giamatti and Linney in their iconic roles as John and Abigail Adams

And if you’re interested in break-downs of historical fiction films, check out my look at The Patriot.

2. The Poetry of Phillis Wheatley

A lot of people haven’t heard of Wheatley (though she was famous in her day!), and this post in honor of her birthday explores her unique position in American literature as a young African-American woman in colonial America who was also an internationally famous poet.

3. Colonial Fashion on RuPaul’s Drag Race

One of the queens dressed up as a redcoat soldier and I had to talk about it! (If you wanna see me dressed up like John Adams, there is also a photo of that in this post haha!).

5. Tracy K. Smith’s poem ‘Declaration’

Probably the most read blog post from my “Madeira Mondays” series and one of the ones I’m the most proud of! An analysis of the poem “Declaration” by Tracy K. Smith. It also features an explanation of what the Declaration of Independence was (that’s what the Continental Congress signed on July 4th “declaring independence” from Great Britain). If you need a refresh on why we celebrate 4th of July, start here!

6 (Bonus post!). The best songs in 1776

I was going to only choose 5 posts, but I had to include this one too. It’s about one of my favorite musicals: 1776!

The cast from 1776 meeting Richard Nixon at the White House, everyone looking just a little bit awkward

And there you have it, folks! If you’ve been reading the blog for years – thank you! If you’ve just dropped in for this post, thank you! There is a big archive that you can explore…

You can follow the blog (I’m thinking I’ll still do history content, but maybe different eras…) and/or follow along with my literary endeavors either on my quarterly newsletter or on my new Instagram account: @goodgriefcarlybrown

And a happy belated 4th of July!

PS Today’s featured image is John Trumbull’s famous painting depicting the signing of the Declaration of Independence.

Madeira Mondays: My favorite view in Edinburgh (Calton Hill)

A lot of folks visiting Edinburgh make time to climb Arthur’s Seat. And don’t get me wrong, that’s a beautiful hike with a rewarding view at the top. I wrote all about it in a recent post here. But personally, I prefer Calton Hill. It’s got a very interesting and unique history and it offers excellent views that are, in my opinion, comparable to Arthur’s Seat. Of course, it’s not as tall as Arthur’s Seat, but it does have an observatory and several monuments, including one unfinished monument locally referred to as “Edinburgh’s Disgrace” (more on that below!).

So this post is my “pitch” if you will for why you should visit Calton Hill if you’re in Edinburgh, alongside a bit of history about this unique landmark.

“Edinburgh from the Calton Hill”, David Roberts, 1858

One of the best things about the hill is that it’s smack dab in the center of the city. It’s basically right at the end of Princes Street (the city’s main shopping thoroughfare). And it only takes about five minutes to walk up the steps from the street to reach the top of the hill, making it the perfect place for quick access to amazing views (Arthur’s Seat, by comparison, takes about half an hour or more to climb, depending on what route you take up).

And what will you see when you get to the top? Well, quite a lot!

If you look north, you’ll see the Firth of Forth (the body of water separating Edinburgh and Fife) and the neighborhood of Leith, along other things. Here’s my mom and I on a recent walk up there, taking in those views.

And looking south (forgive me if my directions are off, but I’m pretty sure it’s south!), you’ll see the rest of the city, including the castle.

You can spot the castle in the far right of this image, and I’ve included a close up shot below

And not far from the base of the hill, you can also spot Holyrood, the palace where the King stays in Scotland.

(If anyone is interested in a Holyrood focused post let me know because that is a really cool place to visit, with lots of history about Mary Queen of Scots!)

The Palace of Holyrood viewed from Calton Hill

Basically, you can wander around the hilltop and, in every direction, there’s a great view!

But there’s more to see up there then just a fantastic view, including the National Monument.

To understand what makes this monument so quirky, you have to know that, in the 19th century, and even sometimes still today, Edinburgh was referred to as the “Athens of the North”. So Calton Hill was meant to be our answer to the acropolis. The famous (and unfinished) national monument was meant to be like the Parthenon in Athens. Construction began in 1826 and it was intended to commemorate the Scottish servicemen who died fighting Napoleon. But building halted just a few years later sadly due to lack of money and it was never finished.

So now you just have these columns basically – an incomplete monument.

But I personally really like the look of it and my mom made a good point when she visited recently that, for the average traveler nowadays, you wouldn’t know the difference between an “incomplete” monument and one that is just missing parts due to age or wear and tear. It looks like a relic from a bygone era, and it certainly is that. Its incomplete nature seems less serious now then it probably did back in the day, when their big dreams were crushed due to the lack of big funds. Now it’s simply a beautiful and iconic part of the skyline.

You can see other elements of neoclassical architecture up there too, including the City Observatory (which I want to make a whole separate post on) and the Dugald Stewart monument (he was a Scottish philosopher). I also like the Nelson monument up there, for British naval hero Horatio Nelson, a stone tower that forms another memorable part of the skyline.

One of the things I like most about this city is that it’s definitely urban but it has a very peaceful, almost countryside feel, embodied by places like Calton Hill. You will know this if you’ve visited, but there are green spaces throughout. I love this. I think this, mixed with all the historical architecture (18th and 19th century and earlier), makes it one of the most beautiful cities in the world.

And Calton Hill is one of the best places to take everything in and to perhaps remember that even projects that don’t go exactly the way you planned can still turn out beautiful.

You can find out more about Calton Hill and its history on the Edinburgh World Heritage Site here. For some amazing photos and more information about the hill, check out this helpful blog post, “A Local’s Guide to Calton Hill, Edinburgh”.

And finally, because it’s the last post of the year, I just wanted to thank you for reading! And to share that I got to have a very special experience this year: I met one of this blog’s readers in person in Edinburgh! She was visiting with her husband and we had a fantastic time grabbing a drink at a local pub, Cafe Royal. This is a positive side of the internet – meeting interesting, like-minded people and forming friendships.

Getting drinks with writer and fellow 18th century history enthusiast: Kristin!

I hope you have a nice festive period and I’ll be back in January!

Madeira Mondays are posted on the first Monday of every month and explore history and historical fiction. If you enjoyed this post please share it, subscribe to the blog, or you can support the blog by buying me a coffee on Kofi! There are many more historical adventures and journeys to share, and I thank you so much for reading! 

Madeira Mondays: Meeting the Infamous Burke and Hare

I’m not a big fan of true crime. I have several friends who love nothing more than listening to podcasts and watching shows about serial killers, or mysterious disappearances, or unexplained grisly crimes. Occasionally one will suck me in (one of the first podcasts I ever listened to was This American Life’s original Serial series, back in 2014), but in general this kind of media isn’t for me. Maybe it’s because I’m already a bit of a scaredy cat. Maybe it’s because of the morally confused way I always feel when I’m “enjoying” stories about real people’s suffering (for a darkly comedic take on the ethics of true crime podcasts, I’d highly recommend the movie Vengeance written and directed by B.J. Novak. It’s underrated and very thought-provoking!).

Nevertheless, there are some famous crimes and criminals that seep into the public consciousness whether you seek them out or not. And, if you live in Edinburgh, you’ve definitely heard the names Burke and Hare. They are often referred to as “body snatchers”, but I’ll talk below about why I think that term is misleading and also about my recent experience of seeing the actual faces of Burke and Hare (ek!) at the National Portrait Gallery a couple of weeks ago…

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Madeira Mondays: Climbing Arthur’s Seat (Edinburgh, Scotland)

Arthur’s Seat is an iconic local landmark in my city. If you’ve ever been to Edinburgh, you’ve definitely seen it. Rising above Holyrood Park, this ancient extinct volcano – with its craggy cliffs and verdant green slopes – is a memorable sight and it definitely adds to the city’s unique majestic, almost magical, feel. (Though the fact that we’ve also got a castle here, and a palace, and some of the most beautiful historic buildings in the world doesn’t hurt either!)

Once described by Edinburgh local and famed author Robert Louis Stevenson as “a hill for magnitude, a mountain in virtue of its bold design”, Arthur’s Seat has been featured in books, movies and TV series past and present. Off the top of my head, I recall scenes in the recent Netflix adaptation of Dave Nicholl’s iconic love story One Day where the couple hikes up there for a graduation picnic. There’s also a very memorable and spooky scene in James Hogg’s wonderfully weird and compelling 19th century novel The Private Memoirs and Confessions of a Justified Sinner.

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Madeira Mondays: A Wild West Cattle Drive (Fort Worth, Texas)

“Do you ride a horse to school?”

Whenever I told people from outside the state that I lived in Texas, this was by far the most common question I received. I always found it very perplexing and, in response, I would stammer something about how I drove or rode the school bus. I slowly realized that people worldwide had a very unique impression of Texas and some really, truly believed that it was like the Old West. Or maybe that everyone lived on a farm? Or that the 21st century hadn’t reached us yet? The irony was that I grew up in a rather large cosmopolitan city, Austin, which was more of a hippie city when I was growing up but now is kind of a high tech mecca. And at no point did I ever ride a horse to school.

All this to say – the whole “cowboy” thing might be a stereotype that people associate with Texas, but not a reality. At least not MY reality. There are some places, however, where you can step back in time and the explore the state’s “cowboy” past. One of those places is at the Fort Worth Cattle Drive.

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Madeira Mondays: The Prettiest Walk in Edinburgh

If you have been to Edinburgh, you know that it’s a gorgeous city. From the regal stately homes of the New Town, to the old winding medieval alleyways of the Old Town, to the sea at Portobello or the grassy slopes atop Calton Hill, it’s a magical place that offers so many scenic views and interesting pockets of history – it’s hard to choose a favorite part of the city. I called this post ‘The Prettiest Walk in Edinburgh’ because it’s about one of my personal favorite walks I’ve taken in a long time, but there’s really no end to ‘pretty walks’ in a city like this one.

But I offer up this path along the Water of Leith as one of the greenest and most tranquil walks you can take here, also featuring some of the most ‘storybook-like’ parts of the city. So come along if you want a glimpse of that!

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Madeira Mondays: A Visit to Greyfriars graveyard in Edinburgh

Some of you may recall the walk that I took with Alan, my friend and fellow Georgian House volunteer, back in December. He very generously led me on a walk through The Royal Mile – the famous street that cuts through the city of Edinburgh – from the Castle down to Holyrood palace. During our walk, he shared with me tales of forgotten Edinburgh residents, catastrophic fires and years upon years of fascinating history.

A couple of weeks ago, my partner and I joined Alan for another walk, this time around Grassmarket which, locals will know, is a lively area of the city’s ‘old town’ that is full of pubs and cafes. We saw a lot on our walk, but instead of trying to cram everything into one post, I thought I’d focus instead on one of my favorite elements of the walk: our exploration of Greyfriars Kirkyard! (A ‘kirk’ is a Scottish word for church, by the way!)

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Madeira Mondays: The National Museum of Cinema (Turin, Italy)

Madeira Mondays is hitting the road for this one, folks! In early January, I headed to Italy to visit my partner’s family (he’s from a town outside Milan). We spent a few days in the nearby city of Turin. Turin is a beautiful northern Italian city, nestled at the base of the Alps, and it’s home to a unique museum: The National Museum of Cinema.

While I was impressed with several aspects of the museum, the coolest thing about it was its collection of old pre-cinema devices, the 18th and 19th century inventions that were popular right BEFORE cinema became a thing. So if you’re wondering what sort of moving images people watched before they went to the movies, then step on into the museum with me…

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Madeira Mondays: Exploring The Royal Mile, Edinburgh (Historical Site Visit)

If you’ve been to Edinburgh, then it’s very likely you’ve been to the Royal Mile. It’s right smack dab in the heart of the city and it’s where most tourists flock to, evidenced by the abundance of souvenir shops called things like ‘Thistle do nicely’. If I’m quite honest, it’s an area that many locals (myself included) tend to avoid, especially during the Edinburgh Fringe Festival when it’s full to the brim with actors in face paint or wigs or funny costumes asking you to please please please come see their show (I’ve been one of those actors too, by the way). All this to say: I don’t hang out on the Royal Mile too often.

But when my friend Alan, who I know from the Georgian House, offered to take me on a private historical tour through the ‘hidden’ aspects of the Royal Mile, I jumped at the chance. Turns out, there was a lot I didn’t know about this famous street.

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Madeira Mondays: A Visit to a Georgian Dining Room

Longtime readers will know that I often spend my weekends volunteering as a costumed historical guide at The Georgian House here in Edinburgh. It’s a beautifully restored 18th century townhouse, where you can visit and see what life was like for the family who owned the house, and their servants who kept it running, in the late 18th/early 19th century.

I’ve written posts inspired by several spots in the home already: including the bedroom, the parlor and the drawing room. BUT I don’t think I’ve done a post yet about the dining room, which is often a favorite of visitors when they come to tour the house. I was in there last weekend telling people all about dining and food in Georgian Edinburgh so I thought this would be the perfect time to spotlight the dining room on the blog.

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