Madeira Mondays: My favorite view in Edinburgh (Calton Hill)

A lot of folks visiting Edinburgh make time to climb Arthur’s Seat. And don’t get me wrong, that’s a beautiful hike with a rewarding view at the top. I wrote all about it in a recent post here. But personally, I prefer Calton Hill. It’s got a very interesting and unique history and it offers excellent views that are, in my opinion, comparable to Arthur’s Seat. Of course, it’s not as tall as Arthur’s Seat, but it does have an observatory and several monuments, including one unfinished monument locally referred to as “Edinburgh’s Disgrace” (more on that below!).

So this post is my “pitch” if you will for why you should visit Calton Hill if you’re in Edinburgh, alongside a bit of history about this unique landmark.

“Edinburgh from the Calton Hill”, David Roberts, 1858

One of the best things about the hill is that it’s smack dab in the center of the city. It’s basically right at the end of Princes Street (the city’s main shopping thoroughfare). And it only takes about five minutes to walk up the steps from the street to reach the top of the hill, making it the perfect place for quick access to amazing views (Arthur’s Seat, by comparison, takes about half an hour or more to climb, depending on what route you take up).

And what will you see when you get to the top? Well, quite a lot!

If you look north, you’ll see the Firth of Forth (the body of water separating Edinburgh and Fife) and the neighborhood of Leith, along other things. Here’s my mom and I on a recent walk up there, taking in those views.

And looking south (forgive me if my directions are off, but I’m pretty sure it’s south!), you’ll see the rest of the city, including the castle.

You can spot the castle in the far right of this image, and I’ve included a close up shot below

And not far from the base of the hill, you can also spot Holyrood, the palace where the King stays in Scotland.

(If anyone is interested in a Holyrood focused post let me know because that is a really cool place to visit, with lots of history about Mary Queen of Scots!)

The Palace of Holyrood viewed from Calton Hill

Basically, you can wander around the hilltop and, in every direction, there’s a great view!

But there’s more to see up there then just a fantastic view, including the National Monument.

To understand what makes this monument so quirky, you have to know that, in the 19th century, and even sometimes still today, Edinburgh was referred to as the “Athens of the North”. So Calton Hill was meant to be our answer to the acropolis. The famous (and unfinished) national monument was meant to be like the Parthenon in Athens. Construction began in 1826 and it was intended to commemorate the Scottish servicemen who died fighting Napoleon. But building halted just a few years later sadly due to lack of money and it was never finished.

So now you just have these columns basically – an incomplete monument.

But I personally really like the look of it and my mom made a good point when she visited recently that, for the average traveler nowadays, you wouldn’t know the difference between an “incomplete” monument and one that is just missing parts due to age or wear and tear. It looks like a relic from a bygone era, and it certainly is that. Its incomplete nature seems less serious now then it probably did back in the day, when their big dreams were crushed due to the lack of big funds. Now it’s simply a beautiful and iconic part of the skyline.

You can see other elements of neoclassical architecture up there too, including the City Observatory (which I want to make a whole separate post on) and the Dugald Stewart monument (he was a Scottish philosopher). I also like the Nelson monument up there, for British naval hero Horatio Nelson, a stone tower that forms another memorable part of the skyline.

One of the things I like most about this city is that it’s definitely urban but it has a very peaceful, almost countryside feel, embodied by places like Calton Hill. You will know this if you’ve visited, but there are green spaces throughout. I love this. I think this, mixed with all the historical architecture (18th and 19th century and earlier), makes it one of the most beautiful cities in the world.

And Calton Hill is one of the best places to take everything in and to perhaps remember that even projects that don’t go exactly the way you planned can still turn out beautiful.

You can find out more about Calton Hill and its history on the Edinburgh World Heritage Site here. For some amazing photos and more information about the hill, check out this helpful blog post, “A Local’s Guide to Calton Hill, Edinburgh”.

And finally, because it’s the last post of the year, I just wanted to thank you for reading! And to share that I got to have a very special experience this year: I met one of this blog’s readers in person in Edinburgh! She was visiting with her husband and we had a fantastic time grabbing a drink at a local pub, Cafe Royal. This is a positive side of the internet – meeting interesting, like-minded people and forming friendships.

Getting drinks with writer and fellow 18th century history enthusiast: Kristin!

I hope you have a nice festive period and I’ll be back in January!

Madeira Mondays are posted on the first Monday of every month and explore history and historical fiction. If you enjoyed this post please share it, subscribe to the blog, or you can support the blog by buying me a coffee on Kofi! There are many more historical adventures and journeys to share, and I thank you so much for reading! 

Madeira Mondays: Meeting the Infamous Burke and Hare

I’m not a big fan of true crime. I have several friends who love nothing more than listening to podcasts and watching shows about serial killers, or mysterious disappearances, or unexplained grisly crimes. Occasionally one will suck me in (one of the first podcasts I ever listened to was This American Life’s original Serial series, back in 2014), but in general this kind of media isn’t for me. Maybe it’s because I’m already a bit of a scaredy cat. Maybe it’s because of the morally confused way I always feel when I’m “enjoying” stories about real people’s suffering (for a darkly comedic take on the ethics of true crime podcasts, I’d highly recommend the movie Vengeance written and directed by B.J. Novak. It’s underrated and very thought-provoking!).

Nevertheless, there are some famous crimes and criminals that seep into the public consciousness whether you seek them out or not. And, if you live in Edinburgh, you’ve definitely heard the names Burke and Hare. They are often referred to as “body snatchers”, but I’ll talk below about why I think that term is misleading and also about my recent experience of seeing the actual faces of Burke and Hare (ek!) at the National Portrait Gallery a couple of weeks ago…

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Madeira Mondays: Climbing Arthur’s Seat (Edinburgh, Scotland)

Arthur’s Seat is an iconic local landmark in my city. If you’ve ever been to Edinburgh, you’ve definitely seen it. Rising above Holyrood Park, this ancient extinct volcano – with its craggy cliffs and verdant green slopes – is a memorable sight and it definitely adds to the city’s unique majestic, almost magical, feel. (Though the fact that we’ve also got a castle here, and a palace, and some of the most beautiful historic buildings in the world doesn’t hurt either!)

Once described by Edinburgh local and famed author Robert Louis Stevenson as “a hill for magnitude, a mountain in virtue of its bold design”, Arthur’s Seat has been featured in books, movies and TV series past and present. Off the top of my head, I recall scenes in the recent Netflix adaptation of Dave Nicholl’s iconic love story One Day where the couple hikes up there for a graduation picnic. There’s also a very memorable and spooky scene in James Hogg’s wonderfully weird and compelling 19th century novel The Private Memoirs and Confessions of a Justified Sinner.

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Madeira Mondays: The Prettiest Walk in Edinburgh

If you have been to Edinburgh, you know that it’s a gorgeous city. From the regal stately homes of the New Town, to the old winding medieval alleyways of the Old Town, to the sea at Portobello or the grassy slopes atop Calton Hill, it’s a magical place that offers so many scenic views and interesting pockets of history – it’s hard to choose a favorite part of the city. I called this post ‘The Prettiest Walk in Edinburgh’ because it’s about one of my personal favorite walks I’ve taken in a long time, but there’s really no end to ‘pretty walks’ in a city like this one.

But I offer up this path along the Water of Leith as one of the greenest and most tranquil walks you can take here, also featuring some of the most ‘storybook-like’ parts of the city. So come along if you want a glimpse of that!

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Madeira Mondays: Sights from Edinburgh’s Past and Present

I have seen a ghost.

Well, not literally – but I’ve come pretty close!

Recently I’ve been teaching a creative writing course I designed at the University of Glasgow which is all about ‘time travel’. We looked at a few straightforwardly sci-fi books about characters actually traveling backwards and forwards in time, as well as poetry, memoir, and historical fiction books that invited us to think about memory and imagination as forms of time travel too.

Teaching this class made me think of a walk I took a few months ago with a dear friend of mine, Alan, who I met while volunteering at The Georgian House. We walked around the Canongate area of Edinburgh (near Holyrood Palace) and he showed me some photographs of how the streets looked in times past. It was almost spooky to see the black and white images of the chaotic shop fronts, the women in their wide-brimmed hats full of flowers, and then look up at the very same street today.

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Madeira Mondays: A Visit to Greyfriars graveyard in Edinburgh

Some of you may recall the walk that I took with Alan, my friend and fellow Georgian House volunteer, back in December. He very generously led me on a walk through The Royal Mile – the famous street that cuts through the city of Edinburgh – from the Castle down to Holyrood palace. During our walk, he shared with me tales of forgotten Edinburgh residents, catastrophic fires and years upon years of fascinating history.

A couple of weeks ago, my partner and I joined Alan for another walk, this time around Grassmarket which, locals will know, is a lively area of the city’s ‘old town’ that is full of pubs and cafes. We saw a lot on our walk, but instead of trying to cram everything into one post, I thought I’d focus instead on one of my favorite elements of the walk: our exploration of Greyfriars Kirkyard! (A ‘kirk’ is a Scottish word for church, by the way!)

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Friday Finds: My three favorite novellas

‘One morning, as Gregor Samsa was waking up from anxious dreams, he discovered that in bed he had been changed into a monstrous verminous bug.’

– The Metamorphosis, Franz Kafka

I wrote a ‘Writing Reflections’ post recently about why my recently-published book, All the Orphans in the Galaxy, was a novella and not a novel. There’s a lot more in that post about what exactly a novella is (essentially, longer than a short story, shorter than a novel!) and why I think it’s such a good form for experimentation. You don’t have to ‘commit’ to one thing for too long and you can really focus and zoom in on just a couple of characters (or a really unique premise!).

In that post, I also mentioned that lots of my favorite books are actually novellas. I thought I’d recommend a few of them here!

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Madeira Mondays: Exploring The Royal Mile, Edinburgh (Historical Site Visit)

If you’ve been to Edinburgh, then it’s very likely you’ve been to the Royal Mile. It’s right smack dab in the heart of the city and it’s where most tourists flock to, evidenced by the abundance of souvenir shops called things like ‘Thistle do nicely’. If I’m quite honest, it’s an area that many locals (myself included) tend to avoid, especially during the Edinburgh Fringe Festival when it’s full to the brim with actors in face paint or wigs or funny costumes asking you to please please please come see their show (I’ve been one of those actors too, by the way). All this to say: I don’t hang out on the Royal Mile too often.

But when my friend Alan, who I know from the Georgian House, offered to take me on a private historical tour through the ‘hidden’ aspects of the Royal Mile, I jumped at the chance. Turns out, there was a lot I didn’t know about this famous street.

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Introducing my debut sci-fi novella: ‘All the Orphans in the Galaxy’!

Over the 2020 lockdown, a lot of people learned how to bake sourdough bread. Some took up knitting. Others got very into gardening, or puzzles, or reorganizing their closets. I, on the other hand, got very into 1990s’ sci-fi TV and, specifically, Star Trek: Deep Space Nine. These far off worlds were my escape. My world had become so small. I really wanted to go BIG in my imagination. Space operas felt perfect.

I had started watching Star Trek during my PhD, a few years back, and it had become a comforting escape for me during stressful periods. But Deep Space Nine hit differently somehow. I’ve heard people say that it’s the ‘grittiest’ Star Trek series and, from what I’ve seen, that’s definitely true. During the lockdown, it particularly resonated with me because of its themes of grief, loss and people trying to pick up the pieces after dark and difficult things.

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Madeira Mondays: A Visit to a Georgian Dining Room

Longtime readers will know that I often spend my weekends volunteering as a costumed historical guide at The Georgian House here in Edinburgh. It’s a beautifully restored 18th century townhouse, where you can visit and see what life was like for the family who owned the house, and their servants who kept it running, in the late 18th/early 19th century.

I’ve written posts inspired by several spots in the home already: including the bedroom, the parlor and the drawing room. BUT I don’t think I’ve done a post yet about the dining room, which is often a favorite of visitors when they come to tour the house. I was in there last weekend telling people all about dining and food in Georgian Edinburgh so I thought this would be the perfect time to spotlight the dining room on the blog.

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