Madeira Mondays: My favorite view in Edinburgh (Calton Hill)

A lot of folks visiting Edinburgh make time to climb Arthur’s Seat. And don’t get me wrong, that’s a beautiful hike with a rewarding view at the top. I wrote all about it in a recent post here. But personally, I prefer Calton Hill. It’s got a very interesting and unique history and it offers excellent views that are, in my opinion, comparable to Arthur’s Seat. Of course, it’s not as tall as Arthur’s Seat, but it does have an observatory and several monuments, including one unfinished monument locally referred to as “Edinburgh’s Disgrace” (more on that below!).

So this post is my “pitch” if you will for why you should visit Calton Hill if you’re in Edinburgh, alongside a bit of history about this unique landmark.

“Edinburgh from the Calton Hill”, David Roberts, 1858

One of the best things about the hill is that it’s smack dab in the center of the city. It’s basically right at the end of Princes Street (the city’s main shopping thoroughfare). And it only takes about five minutes to walk up the steps from the street to reach the top of the hill, making it the perfect place for quick access to amazing views (Arthur’s Seat, by comparison, takes about half an hour or more to climb, depending on what route you take up).

And what will you see when you get to the top? Well, quite a lot!

If you look north, you’ll see the Firth of Forth (the body of water separating Edinburgh and Fife) and the neighborhood of Leith, along other things. Here’s my mom and I on a recent walk up there, taking in those views.

And looking south (forgive me if my directions are off, but I’m pretty sure it’s south!), you’ll see the rest of the city, including the castle.

You can spot the castle in the far right of this image, and I’ve included a close up shot below

And not far from the base of the hill, you can also spot Holyrood, the palace where the King stays in Scotland.

(If anyone is interested in a Holyrood focused post let me know because that is a really cool place to visit, with lots of history about Mary Queen of Scots!)

The Palace of Holyrood viewed from Calton Hill

Basically, you can wander around the hilltop and, in every direction, there’s a great view!

But there’s more to see up there then just a fantastic view, including the National Monument.

To understand what makes this monument so quirky, you have to know that, in the 19th century, and even sometimes still today, Edinburgh was referred to as the “Athens of the North”. So Calton Hill was meant to be our answer to the acropolis. The famous (and unfinished) national monument was meant to be like the Parthenon in Athens. Construction began in 1826 and it was intended to commemorate the Scottish servicemen who died fighting Napoleon. But building halted just a few years later sadly due to lack of money and it was never finished.

So now you just have these columns basically – an incomplete monument.

But I personally really like the look of it and my mom made a good point when she visited recently that, for the average traveler nowadays, you wouldn’t know the difference between an “incomplete” monument and one that is just missing parts due to age or wear and tear. It looks like a relic from a bygone era, and it certainly is that. Its incomplete nature seems less serious now then it probably did back in the day, when their big dreams were crushed due to the lack of big funds. Now it’s simply a beautiful and iconic part of the skyline.

You can see other elements of neoclassical architecture up there too, including the City Observatory (which I want to make a whole separate post on) and the Dugald Stewart monument (he was a Scottish philosopher). I also like the Nelson monument up there, for British naval hero Horatio Nelson, a stone tower that forms another memorable part of the skyline.

One of the things I like most about this city is that it’s definitely urban but it has a very peaceful, almost countryside feel, embodied by places like Calton Hill. You will know this if you’ve visited, but there are green spaces throughout. I love this. I think this, mixed with all the historical architecture (18th and 19th century and earlier), makes it one of the most beautiful cities in the world.

And Calton Hill is one of the best places to take everything in and to perhaps remember that even projects that don’t go exactly the way you planned can still turn out beautiful.

You can find out more about Calton Hill and its history on the Edinburgh World Heritage Site here. For some amazing photos and more information about the hill, check out this helpful blog post, “A Local’s Guide to Calton Hill, Edinburgh”.

And finally, because it’s the last post of the year, I just wanted to thank you for reading! And to share that I got to have a very special experience this year: I met one of this blog’s readers in person in Edinburgh! She was visiting with her husband and we had a fantastic time grabbing a drink at a local pub, Cafe Royal. This is a positive side of the internet – meeting interesting, like-minded people and forming friendships.

Getting drinks with writer and fellow 18th century history enthusiast: Kristin!

I hope you have a nice festive period and I’ll be back in January!

Madeira Mondays are posted on the first Monday of every month and explore history and historical fiction. If you enjoyed this post please share it, subscribe to the blog, or you can support the blog by buying me a coffee on Kofi! There are many more historical adventures and journeys to share, and I thank you so much for reading! 

Madeira Mondays: Meeting the Infamous Burke and Hare

I’m not a big fan of true crime. I have several friends who love nothing more than listening to podcasts and watching shows about serial killers, or mysterious disappearances, or unexplained grisly crimes. Occasionally one will suck me in (one of the first podcasts I ever listened to was This American Life’s original Serial series, back in 2014), but in general this kind of media isn’t for me. Maybe it’s because I’m already a bit of a scaredy cat. Maybe it’s because of the morally confused way I always feel when I’m “enjoying” stories about real people’s suffering (for a darkly comedic take on the ethics of true crime podcasts, I’d highly recommend the movie Vengeance written and directed by B.J. Novak. It’s underrated and very thought-provoking!).

Nevertheless, there are some famous crimes and criminals that seep into the public consciousness whether you seek them out or not. And, if you live in Edinburgh, you’ve definitely heard the names Burke and Hare. They are often referred to as “body snatchers”, but I’ll talk below about why I think that term is misleading and also about my recent experience of seeing the actual faces of Burke and Hare (ek!) at the National Portrait Gallery a couple of weeks ago…

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Madeira Mondays: Climbing Arthur’s Seat (Edinburgh, Scotland)

Arthur’s Seat is an iconic local landmark in my city. If you’ve ever been to Edinburgh, you’ve definitely seen it. Rising above Holyrood Park, this ancient extinct volcano – with its craggy cliffs and verdant green slopes – is a memorable sight and it definitely adds to the city’s unique majestic, almost magical, feel. (Though the fact that we’ve also got a castle here, and a palace, and some of the most beautiful historic buildings in the world doesn’t hurt either!)

Once described by Edinburgh local and famed author Robert Louis Stevenson as “a hill for magnitude, a mountain in virtue of its bold design”, Arthur’s Seat has been featured in books, movies and TV series past and present. Off the top of my head, I recall scenes in the recent Netflix adaptation of Dave Nicholl’s iconic love story One Day where the couple hikes up there for a graduation picnic. There’s also a very memorable and spooky scene in James Hogg’s wonderfully weird and compelling 19th century novel The Private Memoirs and Confessions of a Justified Sinner.

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Madeira Mondays: “No Man is an Island” by John Donne

Howdy folks! It’s been a couple of months. I was surprised to see that my last post was in March. It’s now June. Oof, time flies. There’s been a lot on my mind, and I’ve been meaning to post, but, between teaching responsibilities and working on a new novel, I just…haven’t.

I must admit: the year started off a little gloomy for me. Back towards the start of the year, my sci fi novel almost sold…then it didn’t. This, in and of itself, was disappointing. Hopefully the book will sell to another publisher. My agent is confident; I am optimistic. But my personal disappointment was compounded by a general feeling of malaise, even helplessness, at the political situation in my home country of the US. Sometimes I still feel shocked, or speechless, at all that’s happened or that I fear might happen (just now as I write this in a coffee shop: there’s a table next to mine where they’re discussing the administration’s recent moves to revoke Harvard’s ability to enroll international students).

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Madeira Mondays: A Wild West Cattle Drive (Fort Worth, Texas)

“Do you ride a horse to school?”

Whenever I told people from outside the state that I lived in Texas, this was by far the most common question I received. I always found it very perplexing and, in response, I would stammer something about how I drove or rode the school bus. I slowly realized that people worldwide had a very unique impression of Texas and some really, truly believed that it was like the Old West. Or maybe that everyone lived on a farm? Or that the 21st century hadn’t reached us yet? The irony was that I grew up in a rather large cosmopolitan city, Austin, which was more of a hippie city when I was growing up but now is kind of a high tech mecca. And at no point did I ever ride a horse to school.

All this to say – the whole “cowboy” thing might be a stereotype that people associate with Texas, but not a reality. At least not MY reality. There are some places, however, where you can step back in time and the explore the state’s “cowboy” past. One of those places is at the Fort Worth Cattle Drive.

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Madeira Mondays: Four Good Reasons to Read Dracula this autumn

This post is a follow-up to a post I wrote way back in 2020, right in the midst of the pandemic, as part of a series called ‘Stay in and Read’. For that blog series, I recommended books that could provide a good ‘escape’ during that troubled and uncertain time. I could argue that we’re still in uncertain and troubling times now and, even if you don’t agree, who doesn’t want to escape into a good book every once and a while?

That’s why I wanted to take some time AGAIN to talk about why I love reading Dracula around this time of year. It’s spooky, it’s sexy, it’s surprising, and in my humble opinion it’s a superior experience to any adaptation I’ve seen (and I’ve seen a lot of them!).

Here are four great reasons to read (or re-read) Bram Stoker’s Dracula:

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Madeira Mondays: Meeting the mummies (Bordeaux, France)

Mummies are a staple in Halloween movies. I remember a particular episode of Are You Are of the Dark? (a spooky kids’ show in the 90’s) that featured a centuries-old mummy accidentally brought back to life! The concept was never particularly frightening for me, and I wasn’t riveted (as some kids are) by adventure tales of exploring ancient tombs, pyramids, and the like. Though of course I saw the Indiana Jones movies and The Mummy (1999), for some reason it didn’t ignite that spark of imagination inside me. However I was still curious, when we recently visited Bordeaux, France, to check out an exhibition at a local museum: Living and Dying in Egypt. Apparently, they had real mummies to see!

And what I found wasn’t a spooky experience but more of a spiritual one. I really enjoyed learning about death rituals in ancient Egypt and getting to see a mummy up close wasn’t scary, but oddly moving.

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Madeira Mondays: The Prettiest Walk in Edinburgh

If you have been to Edinburgh, you know that it’s a gorgeous city. From the regal stately homes of the New Town, to the old winding medieval alleyways of the Old Town, to the sea at Portobello or the grassy slopes atop Calton Hill, it’s a magical place that offers so many scenic views and interesting pockets of history – it’s hard to choose a favorite part of the city. I called this post ‘The Prettiest Walk in Edinburgh’ because it’s about one of my personal favorite walks I’ve taken in a long time, but there’s really no end to ‘pretty walks’ in a city like this one.

But I offer up this path along the Water of Leith as one of the greenest and most tranquil walks you can take here, also featuring some of the most ‘storybook-like’ parts of the city. So come along if you want a glimpse of that!

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Madeira Mondays: A folk song about a Revolutionary War soldier

For today’s ‘Madeira Mondays’, I wanted to share with you one of my favorite pieces of art about the Revolutionary War. It’s a quiet little song by New Mexico-based folk musician Eliza Gilkyson. It’s called ‘Jedidiah 1777’ and it comes from her 2005 album Paradise Hotel.

It’s a song about a young American soldier called Jedidiah and it’s actually based on letters written by Gilkyson’s own ancestor, Brig. Gen. Jedidiah Huntington, who fought in the Revolutionary War!

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Madeira Mondays: My new historical short story ‘Feminine Absurdities’

“It wasn’t until my fourth or fifth sip of tea this morning that I noticed Miss Nancy Carson was missing her eyebrows. I promptly set the cup down and stared at her across the breakfast table. I wanted to make certain she had not simply hidden her brows under too much white pomade. The girl is at an age where she has begun to prepare her toilette, and painting takes practice to master. But her brows were not covered up. They were gone.”

That’s the opening paragraph from my new historical short story – ‘Feminine Absurdities’! It was published last month in CALYX magazine. You can listen to an audio recording of the full story right here.

‘Feminine Absurdities’ is set in 18th century New York City during America’s Revolutionary War. As many of you will know, that’s the war when the American colonies fought for independence from Great Britain. But that’s not what my story is about. My story is about a schoolteacher who notices that something is wrong with one of her pupils. Her eyebrows are gone! But what’s actually wrong with the girl might be deeper and darker than it first appears…

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